Eisenach and the black donkey

The last stop on our tour of Thüringen was Eisenach. It's a small town that is famous for being the birthplace of Johann Sebastian Bach and the site of the Wartburg Castle (if you have ever heard of Wartburg College in Iowa, it's named after this castle). Wartburg is the place where Martin Luther lived while he translated the New Testament into German.

Eisenach's streets and houses are picturesque. Its market square is spotless, its Rathaus is pink. But the most memorable place we went was a little restaurant - literally a mom and pop establishment. Mom was up front, waiting tables and pouring beers. Pop was in the kitchen, pounding relentlessly on the schnitzel and frying up potatoes. The walls were sponge-painted (in early 90s style) bright yellow. There were ceramic animal figurines on the shelves and a fake tree in the corner, reaching from floor to ceiling with a round table built around the trunk. Just when we thought it couldn't get any better, we saw that there was a Kegelbahn too.
Kegeln is a sport that looks like bowling, but the pins are skinny and there are only nine of them. So we were hanging out at the small town bowling alley. It could have been league night. We had to wait for our table because a jolly group of retirees finished eating before their weekly round. Mom was apologetic.

It was ladies night at the Kegelbahn restaurant, and a group of bitter-looking women, in comfortable shoes and too much eye shadow, ate at the tree trunk table in between their smoke breaks. Pop's schnitzel was delicious, and the Eisenacher beers cost less than 2 euros each. Mom made sure we had enough of everything.

There are no places like this in Hannover, but I wish there were. They got chased out by ethnic restaurants and wine bar bistros. German readers, if you know of any schnitzel-pounding mom and pop restaurants, please let me know.

At the Kegelbahn restaurant, we learned about the donkeys. The Eisenacher Schwarzbier beer mats on our table had a picture of a black donkey named Anja and a girl named Jessica. It's called the Eisenacher Schwarzer Esel, the black donkey beer. Even though the donkey is sure to catch your eye, he isn't only a marketing tactic.

I got to meet Anja as we hiked to Wartburg Castle the next morning.

Even for someone who lives in a 5th floor walk up, the climb to the castle had me sweating. Halfway up we passed the donkey station. Why huff and puff your way to the castle when you can ride a donkey? It sounded appealing but the stable was empty. The donkeys were having their leisurely breakfast (probably bread, cheese and wurst) and wouldn't get to work until 10. By the time we walked down the hill, the donkeys had punched in and were ready to go.

Wartburg Castle

Me at the donkey station

Jessica from the beer mat is a former Hopfkoenigin, the hops queen. Apparently they are looking for this year's queen. I am not sure what's required, but love of donkeys and beer would be a good start, and looking good in a dirndl, of course. If you're interested in applying, I'd recommend talking to mom and pop about it first. They'll take care of you.