The most recent history of Cyprus is that it was a British
colony starting in 1878 (that is recent when your history goes back a few
thousand years). After a few decades of struggle, the Cypriots gained
independence in 1960. Tensions between
the Greek and Turkish communities in Cyprus grew during independence, resulting
in violence and the UN bringing in peace-keeping troops in the mid-sixties.
Turkey invaded in 1974, and won, resulting in 37% of Cyprus becoming North
Cyprus. The north-south border is called the Green Line (I know it sounds like a public transit line, but it has that name because a British guy drew on a map with green
crayon), and there is a UN-regulated buffer zone along it. Turkey is the only
country in the world that recognizes North Cyprus as a sovereign nation.
Otherwise it’s considered an occupied territory. Since Cyprus is in the
European Union, it’s a little awkward that part of it is occupied by a non-EU
foreign power.
In North Lefkosa (Nicosia) |
To cross into North Nicosia, we drove through at a
checkpoint where we had to purchase temporary car insurance (ours was only valid on the
Greek side) and show our passports.
We headed to St. Hilarion’s castle on the north coast of
Cyprus. St. Hilarion was supposedly the inspiration for both Schloss
Neuschwanstein in Germany and Disney’s
Cinderella castle. It was originally built as a monastery, then converted to a
castle by the Byzantines in the 8th century. They figured it would
be the best place to spot any Arabs invading by sea. The Lusignans, the next
conquerors, used it also until it was abandoned in the 15th century.
St. Hilarion's Castle |
After visiting the castle we headed back across the border
and to Kalavasos. The old guys were still sitting at their cafes, drinking cans
of Carlsberg and playing dice.
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