Since the North Cyprus car insurance was only valid for
three days, we went back on Tuesday. This time we crossed further
to the east, after passing through the Cyprus’s only town located in the UN
buffer zone. That would be a strange place to live, I think, between two
countries that many consider one country.
Driving through North Cyprus is like stepping back in time.
No one is wearing bell bottoms or playing disco music, but you can see that a
lot of things haven’t changed since the 70’s. The most extreme example is the
ghost city of Varosha. It used to be the swanky resort district of Famagusta
(Gazimagusa in Turkish). In the early 1970s , it became one of the top tourist destinations in the world for the rich and famous. Now, you can’t go in. You can't even find it on a map - North Cyprus pretends it's not there. Since the Turkish invasion, it is
simply fenced off and allowed to decay. The Turkish are holding it as part memorial and part bargaining chip since they won't release it to UN control. You’re not supposed to take
photos, but of course we did:
Varosha |
Old town Famagusta is built around a ruined city also.
Bordered by medieval city walls (built by the Venetians), you can’t go anywhere in
the old town without seeing a 13th or 14th century church
or some kind of ruined building. In most other European countries, each of
these places would have sign explaining their history. They would charge
admission and have a souvenir shop at the gate. In North Cyprus, you can stand
on the 15th century city wall with no railing to protect you, wander
among the ruins without another tourist in sight, and the only fences around
these historical attractions are covered in barbed wire.
Next we drove through the newer, brighter, more crowded
parts of Famagusta, including a KFC and multiple coffee shops (as a
non-coffee-drinker I feel left out of this caffeinated brotherhood somehow) and out to the
ruined city of Salamis. The city was built around 1000 B.C. In about 300
B.C., Salamis was the
capital and main trading center of Cyprus. It’s hard to wrap my head around that kind of antiquity. The Egyptians, the Greeks and the Romans all
left their mark, though most of the buildings that you can visit today were
built by the Romans in the 3rd and 4th centuries A.D.
Some of the buildings are little more than piles of rocks, but the baths, the
gymnasium, theater and roads are still intact.
Salamis |
I'll bet they don't let you do this in Athens |
Gymnasium at Salamis |
The amphitheater at Salamis held 15,000 people. I'm on the left. |
It makes me wonder what our cities will look like in 2000
years. Will any trace be left at all? Will anyone be around to see them? As the
vines take over the ghost town of Varosha, I can start to imagine it.
No comments:
Post a Comment